Vietnam’s sleeper train: swap speed for stunning scenery

Rushing past stunning beaches, sheer cliffs and dense forests, taking in the sights through bloodshot, sleep-deprived eyes. That was our experience of Vietnam’s 17 hour sleeper train from Hanoi to Da Nang, which we chose over a domestic flight. Was it worth the extra travel time?

The Reunification Express is Vietnam’s longest train line, running from Hanoi in the north, to Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon) in the south over 1700km. While the full journey takes around 32 hours, the trip we took from Hanoi to Da Nang, about half way down the country, takes 17 hours.

Doesn't the plane fly anyway?

We’ve asked ourselves this question when we talk about train vs plane. But it comes down to supply and demand. When multiple people avoid flights, airlines will run less flights due to the decreased demand, which makes a huge difference to emissions.

Flying looks like the easy option here. The cost can work out similar between a typical flight and a soft sleeper train - a bed with a soft thin mattress in a 4-person cabin, with flying normally slightly cheaper.

Time is a major factor however, where the flight takes about 1.5 hours (more when you add airport transfer and security), and the train is closer to 17 hours. But we reminded ourselves that the train runs through the night, so you don’t “lose” all those hours - you’d normally be sleeping through half that time anyway.

The carbon emissions are where there’s a big difference. A domestic flight emits about 7 times as much carbon dioxide equivalent per passenger per kilometer than a train, according to UK stats. Obviously the Reunification Express isn’t identical to UK trains, but it’s a good approximation.

One of the world’s most incredible train journeys

Lonely Planet’s editors were onto something when they selected the world’s most epic train journeys. A highlight for any tourist is hurtling through Hanoi’s world-famous “train street”, where the track runs right down a narrow street between brightly lit cafes and bars. Hundreds of tourists in the cafes sit just inches beneath the train windows, snapping pictures as it goes by. Bella insisted on waving at every single person we passed at the busy city intersections.

Something we loved about this journey by train, which applies to most rail journeys, was the fact it ran directly between the city centres. That meant a very short taxi from our hotel to the station, no airport queues or security lines, and stepping off right in Da Nang the other end.

The Reunification Express also had a full dining car, which was fantastic for soaking in the coastal panoramas while I enjoyed a bowl of phở at a very affordable price.

We appreciated the breakfast boxes, beers and soft drinks included in our room on arrival, which beats a domestic flight. Once we’d settled into the journey, we booked a “foot spa” as well - basically a bowl of warm tea and spices to soak your tired feet. These comforts* helped the train journey to feel really relaxing.

How hard is it to sleep on the train?

We don’t sleep that easily on the move, and this was no exception. Bella was smart enough to bring an eye mask and ear plugs, which are both a massive benefit here - I didn’t, and suffered for it.

The beds are actually surprisingly comfortable and, thankfully, long enough to lie down in without having to bend your legs (unless you’re taller than 6ft / 183cm). But, being an old track, it is quite a bumpy ride. We’ve also taken the Caledonian Sleeper from London to Edinburgh and honestly, the ride quality was about the same.

We were warned about temperature in cabins, but found this wasn’t a concern at all - the air con is fully adjustable and works great. There’s a Western-style toilet and separate sink per carriage which was also in good condition. Although it was well-stocked for our journey, it’s recommended to bring your own toilet paper and soap in case you get caught short.

Would we recommend it?

From a sustainability perspective, we think so - making the same journey with significantly lower emissions is really important to us.

Sustainability aside, we still feel it was worthwhile, as long as you know what to expect. If you’re smart enough to bring ear plugs and an eye mask (unlike me), and you sleep well on transport, then you’ll probably find sleep comes easily here. Waking up to fascinating countryside passing by, and spending the last hour cruising along incredible coastline with fresh phở and a beer in hand, is unbeatable and more than made up for our broken sleep.

Would you ever try a moving sleepover?

*Note that we travelled with Laman Express, who operate a selection of carriages on board - some of these perks may not be the same in all carriages.